Cooking Asparagus

Cooking Asparagus

A subtly sweet, fresh grassy taste makes asparagus one of the most anticipated arrivals of spring. White asparagus is simply green asparagus that's grown beneath a cover of soil or hay, which prevents photosynthesis and gives white asparagus a crunchier texture. Purple asparagus tends to have a somewhat sweeter taste than green. The purple pigment turns green when heated.

To select asparagus :

• Look for spears with a vivid color and no blemishes and bruises. The buds at the tip should be tightly closed, and the base of each stalk should appear freshly cut. Whether you choose pencil-thin, standard or jumbo is a matter of personal preference. All can be equally tender as long as they are fresh. For the best flavor, enjoy asparagus at the peak of its season from March to May. At other times of the year, the asparagus in your market has likely been flown in from a distant country.

To store asparagus :

• Remove any bands that bid the spears together, and put the bases of the stems in a glass filled with about 2" of water. Cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Changing the water daily will help the asparagus stay fresh longer, but for the best flavor, enjoy asparagus soon after you've bought it.

To trim :

• Hold one end of the asparagus spear in each hand and bend the stalk. The spear will naturally break at the point where it becomes tough.

To peel :

• Thick, tough-skinned asparagus may need peeling with a vegetable peeler. To avoid breaking the spears, lay each flat on a work surface with the tip away from you and the stem end near you. Using a vegetable peeler, peel from tip to stem end, working in that direction only.

To blanch :

• Blanching or parboiling asparagus makes it perfect for a platter of fresh vegetables and dips. Trim the asparagus and place in boiling water for 15 seconds (for small spears) to 30 seconds (for longer spears). Transfer to paper towels, pat dry, and let cool.

To steam upright :

• Trim asparagus and cut the stem ends level with a knife. Using kitchen string, tie the asparagus together in a bundle. You may need two separate bands of string to secure the bundle. Place 1" of water in a tall, covered saucepan and bring to a simmer. If needed, trim the asparagus to fit in the covered saucepan. Stand the asparagus upright in the saucepan, cover and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, depending upon the thickness. If you don't have a tall saucepan, use another saucepan or a metal bowl of the same diameter to invert over the asparagus.

To boil evenly :

• Use a large, wide skillet. Add 1" of water and heat to boiling. Add trimmed asparagus so that all the spears face the same direction. Move the pan so that the stem ends are directly over the heat and the tips are well off the burner. Boil just until crisp-tender, about 4-6 minutes for 1 pound of asparagus.

To grill :

• Preheat the grill and spray the grill grate or a grilling screen with oil. Toss the spears in olive oil and put them on the grilling screen, or thread them onto wooden skewers so that they don't fall between the grate. Place the spears perpendicular to the bars of the grate and grill 20 to 40 seconds per side (for thin spears) or 40 to 60 seconds (for thick spears) over a medium-hot fire. There will be grill marks on the spears, but the asparagus may not look completely cooked. That's ok. Transfer the spears to a plate; within 20 seconds, they will soften and turn bright green. Season with salt, pepper and other seasonings if desired.

To roast :

• Spread the spears on a baking sheet and toss with olive oil. Roast at 425^oF about 2 minutes, then shake the pan to turn over the spears and roast until tender, 2 to 3 minutes more. Season with salt, pepper and other seasonings if desired.

To microwave :

• Place trimmed asparagus in a microwaveable dish with the tips pointing inward. The tips can overlap, if needed. Add 1/8" of water, cover and microwave on high power until just tender, 3 to 6 minutes (depending on thickness).

To stir-fry :

• Cut 1 pound of trimmed asparagus into 2" lengths. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Add asparagus and toss until the spears start to turn bright green, about 45 seconds for thin spears. For thicker spears, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup stock or water and immediately cover the pan. Steam for 30 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes, depending on the thickness. Season with salt and pepper, if desired.

To test for doneness :

• Pierce the stalk with the tip of a knife. Consider asparagus done when the stalk is just tender and meets the knife with a bit of resistance. Asparagus will continue cooking with residual heat once it has left the heat, so cook it until crisp-tender.

To cool cooked asparagus :

• Spread the spears in a single layer on a rack or a towel. Avoid plunging them into a bowl of cold water, which dilutes the flavor.

Chef's Tip :

Only the thickest, woodiest asparagus spears need peeling. Even then, it isn't necessary to remove all of the skin, because it is not the skin itself that makes the asparagus tough. Rather, the skin forms a barricade around the interior fibers that need to be softened. Once the skin is opened, even partially, the asparagus will cook through more evenly. Save time by peeling just 2 strips on opposite sides of each spear with a vegetable peeler. This will allow the heat to permeate the tougher fibers faster. To preserve the nutrients, cook asparagus in an upright position. Most of the nutrients are found in the tips. Cooking asparagus upright also gently steams the tender tips while the thicker stalks cook in the simmering water, resulting in even cooking from top to bottom.